- Mon Oct 26, 2015 2:43 pm
#32330
Hi, I have 3 of these that have been running for about a month now with only software issues (gets stuck in a loop and becomes unresponsive). To the best of my knowledge they have only reset when I have done it. As they are controlled from via a HTTP header from my phone and are effectively normally open (off) I would have to intervene to switch back on if it had reset.
The power supply is the 3.3V 600mA option of
these. It has 1000uF & a smaller SMT capacitor on the output so I didn’t bother putting any more on.
The SSR is one of
these. The spec rates them as 5V switching but they will switch quite happily at 3.3V and don’t get warm even at their rated 2A. It is hidden under the power supply and ESP.
The ESP8266-01 has this modification and connection method. The ESP8266-01 is known for resets due to ‘not the best’ board design. There is a long track on the underside from RST to the pin, then the connector and more track to the point at which it connects to 3.3V. My preferred method is to short on the ESP unless the pin is needed. It also helps if like me you use proto strip board as you only need the 4 pins broken out.
On a side note, I've ordered some 10K 0802 resistors to see if I can then solder them between the backs of the ESP headers of CH_PD & GPIO 2, and RST & GPIO 0 then I can have the pull ups onboard as well.
The ESP has the following connections.
Vcc -> 3.3V
GND -> GND
RST -> 3.3V
CH_PD -> 3.3V
GPIO 0 -> 10k resistor -> 3.3V
GPIO 2 -> 10K resistor ->3.3V
Tx -> No connection
Rx -> No connection
SSR has the following connections.
+ve opto -> 3.3V
-ve opto -> GPIO 2
GPIO 2 is set as output & set high as the first line of setup code.
Then low switches on the relay & high off.
The ESP is removed from the board for flashing & testing. I think it safer to prove code with low voltage components then move to mains.
The whole unit measures 40 x 40 x 30mm and was designed to fit in a small water proof electrical enclosure. I assembled the first unit not expecting it to work due to interference from the power supply or SSR causing resets or poor signal but it’s been fine, so I built 2 more. My current project uses a simalar format but is switching an ILD74 for some low voltage applications. The opto means that there is not a common ground and is easier to switch between 3.3V and GPIO. This seems stable as well.
I’m not sure whether this will help in your application as you don't state what you are switching and with what components.
