- Sat Dec 10, 2016 4:44 pm
#59332
Hello, I am new to ESP8266 and I recently purchased ESP8266MOD. I dont know how to use it. I googled that to program it I will need cp2102 USB programmer. Is that true? Can I make from these 2 parts "board"? Thanks
- Sun Dec 11, 2016 7:06 pm
#59378
The CP2102 is a USB to 5V serial adapter, that can be used for programming and communicating with the esp8266. Search ebay, you can find a wide variety of adapters based on this chip and others, but you will need one that can operate at 3.3v, instead of 5v. I use one like this. You may also need an external 3.3v power supply, the esp8266 uses more power that some USB ports can supply. Typically you would hook up the USB to serial adapter to program/debug the code you're loading on the esp8266 (or whatever you happen to be working on), and then disconnect it for the final application, so I wouldn't worry about making a board to connect the two unless your final design is for it to be connected to a PC. For programming and initial design, use a breadboard and jumper wires.
- Mon Dec 12, 2016 3:21 am
#59387
Yes, you need a FTDI to connect the serial lines in the ESP to the USB in your computer.
You will also need some power source for the device.
You will also need some power source for the device.
- Wed Dec 14, 2016 8:51 pm
#59511
You will need a few things to play with an esp8266 module, and some of that depends on the module. Let's assume you are playing with the -01 modules.
You need a thing called a FTDI, that plugs into the USB port on your computer and it spits makes a virtual serial COM port. The output from that board needs to be 3.3V logic levels. Most of the so called FTDI boards can be switched between 3.3V and 5V. Make sure the one you get is switchable and set to 3.3V. Under $2 NOTE, you will need to find the proper driver for this board and they do not come with them. This can be challenging. Look at the numbers on the chip on the FTDI board and search.
You will need a way to power the esp8266 board itself. The board wants to run off 3.3V. There are a ton of ways you can go here. I have seen everything from regulating down the 5V on a computers USB port to small regulator boards that run off a wall wart, to using discrete regulators and batteries. I prefer one of the boards that plugs in the end of a solderless breadboard and can run off your USB port or a wall wart and supply 3.3 or 5V. I run mine off of a 9V wall wart. Make sure it is set to 3.3V. Under $1 for the board and under $4 for the wall wart.
You will need either some wires with female IDC connectors on one end and male's on the other or a "carrier board" for the module to allow you to plug it into the wireless breadboard. 40 F to M wires will run you under $4, as will a carrier board. I prefer the carrier board, but having the wires on hand is handy for other things.
Having a solderless breadboard is almost necessary if you want to play with more than LED's hanging off the I/O pins. Under $5 for that
Male to Male IDC wires are handy. You can use hook up wire but once you have used the ones with the ends it is hard to go back. Figure another $4 there.
And a few bucks in periphery. Some dropping resistors for LED's, some LED's, perhaps a few transistors for bigger loads...
I figure for around $20 you can have a pretty cushy set up
You need a thing called a FTDI, that plugs into the USB port on your computer and it spits makes a virtual serial COM port. The output from that board needs to be 3.3V logic levels. Most of the so called FTDI boards can be switched between 3.3V and 5V. Make sure the one you get is switchable and set to 3.3V. Under $2 NOTE, you will need to find the proper driver for this board and they do not come with them. This can be challenging. Look at the numbers on the chip on the FTDI board and search.
You will need a way to power the esp8266 board itself. The board wants to run off 3.3V. There are a ton of ways you can go here. I have seen everything from regulating down the 5V on a computers USB port to small regulator boards that run off a wall wart, to using discrete regulators and batteries. I prefer one of the boards that plugs in the end of a solderless breadboard and can run off your USB port or a wall wart and supply 3.3 or 5V. I run mine off of a 9V wall wart. Make sure it is set to 3.3V. Under $1 for the board and under $4 for the wall wart.
You will need either some wires with female IDC connectors on one end and male's on the other or a "carrier board" for the module to allow you to plug it into the wireless breadboard. 40 F to M wires will run you under $4, as will a carrier board. I prefer the carrier board, but having the wires on hand is handy for other things.
Having a solderless breadboard is almost necessary if you want to play with more than LED's hanging off the I/O pins. Under $5 for that
Male to Male IDC wires are handy. You can use hook up wire but once you have used the ones with the ends it is hard to go back. Figure another $4 there.
And a few bucks in periphery. Some dropping resistors for LED's, some LED's, perhaps a few transistors for bigger loads...
I figure for around $20 you can have a pretty cushy set up
