Chat freely about anything...

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By Oszkár Leopold
#29667
martinayotte wrote:From what I understood from what other people said about "NON-GENUINE DEVICE FOUND", it is the USB-TTL Serial which is a chinese clone of the original FTDI, and the Windows driver refuse to let you use it.
Either you change your USB-TTL Serial, or you using the clone one but on Linux platform.


Yes, I have already come to this conclusion, and I followed an online tutorial about "unbricking" the device.
It didn't work under windows XP, but I tried it on OSX now, and at least it responds to AT commands. No programming under windows for me, looks like it. Thanks!


kolban wrote:I didn't read it all ... but this page may be useful:

http://hackaday.com/2014/10/22/watch-th ... ake-chips/


I used the same tool that is linked on this website, and its Product ID was "0000" (labeled as "bricked"). After I used the method it became the good "6001", it basically looks exactly like a genuine FTDI now, doesn't work under windows 7 though. Thanks!
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By arduic
#29704 It's possible that when you plug in the device Windows is trying to use the drivers for the device with product ID 0000 (bricked) rather then the correct ID. This would be a bit strange since I thought the product ID was used as a part of the UID for each chip but I could be wrong. In any case I had an issue at one point where my mouse was given two drivers in Windows and Windows would keep picking the one that didn't work. I went through a huge pain deleting the driver and then the mouse worked fine since it loaded the correct driver. I don't know where the guide is but you should be able to find one online just make sure you delete the right thing or something could go very very wrong.
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By tve
#29746 I have had trouble with the internal pull-up on the reset line which is not accessible directly from the -03 module pins. I end up bridging the little solder jumper off the corner of the esp chip to connect reset and gpio16 and putting a pull-up on the gpio16 line.